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In extraordinarily simple terms, there are three fundamental strategies employed. You need to be agile enough to hop between tactics almost instantly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This consists of creating a 6-deep wall of checkers, or at a minimum as deep as you are able to manage, to lock in the competitor’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most acceptable course of action at the start of the match. You can assemble the wall anyplace within your eleven-point and your 2-point and then move it into your home board as the game progresses.
The Blitz
This is comprised of closing your home board as quickly as possible while keeping your competitor on the bar. e.g., if your opposer tosses an early 2 and moves one checker from your one-point to your three-point and you then roll a five-five, you will be able to play six/one six/one eight/three 8/3. Your opposer is then in serious dire straits considering that they have two pieces on the bar and you have locked half your home board!
The Backgame
This plan is where you have two or higher anchors in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor is a position filled by at a minimum 2 of your pieces.) It should be used when you are significantly behind as it much improves your opportunities. The strongest locations for anchors are close to your opponent’s lower points and either on abutting points or with a single point in between. Timing is integral for an effectual backgame: besides, there’s no reason having 2 nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then forced to break apart this right away, while your opposer is getting their pieces home, considering that you don’t have other extra checkers to move! In this situation, it’s better to have pieces on the bar so that you might maintain your position up until your opponent gives you a chance to hit, so it can be a wonderful idea to attempt and get your competitor to get them in this situation!